CORNICE FIXING INSRUCTIONS
- Make sure all contact surfaces are sound, clean and
free from grease.
- Wall and ceiling paper must be removed and paint roughed
up to provide a good key.
- To position the cornice correctly it is helpful to
have pencil guidelines around the walls and ceiling,
to the dimensions indicated in the brochure (making
adjustments for uneven plastered ceilings and walls).
- Fix nails in the wall at 600mm at the cornice wall
depth as a temporary support for the cornice. Repeat
this all round the room.
- The cornice is fixed with adhesive and for added security
screwed using rust proof screws to the wall and to ceiling
joists. The ceiling joists can easily be located by
probing with a nail inside the ceiling guideline where
marks would eventually be hidden by the cornice. The
joist positions can be marked in pencil outside the
guidelines for ease of location when actually fixing
the cornice.
- Commence fixing of cornice at an internal corner and
ideally with a patterned cornice you should choose the
one that is least seen when entering the room, because
this mitre will be less noticeable if a pattern match
cornice is used. Having mitred the ends that form the
corner spread a continuous layer of adhesive on both
edges of the cornice where they will be in contact with
the walls and ceiling. Then supported on the nails press
on the cornice edges and squeeze the cornice into the
angle between the wall and ceiling as tightly as possible
and fix nails into the ceiling to temporarily support
the cornice.
- Check that the cornice is sitting correctly according
to the dimensions and adjust nails accodingly. It is
very important to accurately align cornice joints prior
to screwing and before the adhesive sets.
- Fix to the wall and ceiling using rust proof screws
(never rely on the adhesive alone to fix the cornice)
- The excess adhesive squeezed from the horizontal joints
between the wall and the ceiling should be removed with
a filling knife and the joints made good.
- The vertical gaps at joints, angles and mitred ends
should be filled with casting plaster as follows: -
Mix a small quantity (if you mix it too thick you will
waste more than you use) of casting plaster in water
to a milky consistency. Thoroughly brush the cornice
joints with a wet paintbrush, then fill the joint with
plaster. Clean off excess material from the joint with
a plasterer's small tool or filling knife, then brush
away loose material. (Dentil block and other mouldings
can be sculpted since the casting plaster sets very
quickly).
- Any splashes of adhesive on the wall, ceiling or cornice
face should be washed off immediately.
- When dry (usually about 24 hours under normal conditions)
the cornice can be painted.
CUTTING A MITRE
- Place the cornice upside down in the mitre block with
the wall edge uppermost flat against the side and the
ceiling edge flat against the base.
- Fix small battens (not necessary if you make your
mitrebox as below) to the mitre box base set away from
the upright the ceiling projection dimension shown in
the brochure, to ensure 45 degree cut.
- Cut the mitres with a fine toothed saw. Any inaccuracies
are made good when the joint is filled.
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